And they are excellent recipes; no skimping on ingredients, no shop-bought pastry, all spices ground by hand in the big stoneware mortar Ernest bought me for our first anniversary. I don’t begrudge a minute; cooking should take time. And I do enjoy it. I’ve never been one for these labour-saving devices – mixers and blenders and microwaves and the rest. Ernst calls them ’flavor-saving devices’.

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